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Embroidery problems
? How to Solve most of you embroidery Stitching Problems
Info & Tips - How
& What to use
BACKINGS
& TOPPINGS—STABILIZERS
1.
The first thing to consider for the best outcome of any embroidery design.
We have to make the fabric conducive to the thread, needle, stitch count density
and tension setting! If this isn't done, you will never produce a quality design
that will maintain its shape after laundering.
2. Always pre-shrink
your fabric, by laundering/dry cleaning,
before applying any backing, topping or thread! If you skip this step, you may be
sorry after the first laundering as the design--especially dense ones--will "warp".
3. All of our backings are polyester.
The fusible backings require an iron temperature setting compatible with polyester.
We prefer poly content in all embroidery supplies as it works well with any fabric
type—also, the majority of our stitching is done on poly or blends.
4. Tip:
The first rule of any sewing is to match thread & fabric content!
Fusibles--I always
start with a fusible backing, regardless of fabric type. It just makes sense to
me that anything fused to a fabric is going to insure a better chance of the fabric
remaining stable throughout the stitching. If you choose not to use it on everything,
it is a must on knits, or any fabric, which stretches. I prefer the commercial fusibles
that tear away. Most home market fusibles have a paper backing, which makes hooping
difficult—commercial fusibles are non-woven, but do not have the paper backing for
easier hooping. Tip:
Try stitching your outline first for large and/or dense designs for added stability.
Be careful not to use an iron on too high/low a setting as it will cause the backing
to bubble or not stabilize evenly and could come loose from the fabric before you're
finished hooping--much less stitching! If a backing is simply lying underneath the
fabric in the hoop, it's doing nothing to hold the fabric weave from stretching
or drawing in during stitching! Chambray, denim and other unstable woven
or knit fabrics will need from 1-2 layers of a tear away fusible, if you're using
commercial backing. Tip:
Fuse one with the straight-grain & another with the cross-grain to insure stretchy
fabrics are stabilized!
Solvy-- If the
design you're stitching is dense or uses the stitch on stitch technique, you will
also want to add a layer/layers of solvy on top. I choose to use a layer of web
solvy on top of any fabric type and sometimes layering solvy to add dimension to
the design. If you prefer to use a spray adhesive to hold it in place, spray the
solvy--not the fabric!
If using a fusible on a garment that
will lay next to the skin, you will also need to add a final layer of soft tear
away --use the spray adhesive for a temporary hold or better still try using our
soft fusible interfacing to cover those jump stitches that we are not supposed to
clip! Ours won't change the hand of your fabric! TIP:
cut your fusible interfacing with pinking shears to a size slightly larger than
the design to avoid show through on the outside of the garment! This is especially
true for soft knits, which would have a rigid area around the design.
For those special fabrics that a hoop will leave marks on or small garment parts
like collars, cuffs or children's clothing, you will want to keep some self-adhesive
backing on hand. ( See our new appliqué product for use as sticky too!) To use this
you hoop the backing with the paper on. Carefully score the paper in the area to
be stitched. Remove the paper and lay the garment part on top of the hoop--applying
enough pressure to hold it firmly in place. Add solvy if necessary, using the spray
adhesive to hold it in place. Proceed as usual with the stitching.
All the products I've mentioned above may be found at our Supplies
Page at - Embroidery Supplies - Only the Best
!
An additional word on the solvy we carry - it is by far
the easiest to remove when the design is finished. I spray a mist of cold water
and allow to air dry. Do not apply heat until the fabric is completely dry. You
won't need to do anything other than mist - honest! The web dissolves like cotton
candy and won't leave your design stiff ! An added bonus is that the web can be
used to fuse appliqués temporarily—then launders out !
THREADS
Isacord Thread
Isacord® polyester
thread is well known for its strength and beautiful luster. It is nearly 1 ½ times
stronger and more colorfast than rayon. Each cone of 40-weight thread has 1080 yards
and a patented snap-lock bottom to secure thread ends from unraveling. Consistent
dye lots mean you will see no visible difference from cone to cone. Now comes in
315 colors and this includes the
95 New Colors - All are available Now and in Stock.
Click on link
>
Conversion charts to Isacord Colors
TIP:
Always match thread content to fabric content for best results in sewing
& laundering!
Rayon--has long been the most
widely used of any machine embroidery threads. It is known for it's
high sheen and brilliant colors. You must use care when laundering and it
isn't as strong as some
of the acrylic and polyester threads. Always use a lower tension setting
for a smoother running stitch, fewer breaks and loops. It's usually the
most expensive of the embroidery threads.
Acrylic--is slightly
stronger than rayon with a coarser texture. It is more colorfast than rayon
but is not as smooth running; therefore you would need to use a slightly
larger needle. Pricing is generally in the middle range of embroidery threads.
Isacord® Polyester--is
stronger and more colorfast than rayon or acrylic threads. In most cases,
it can even be bleached when laundering without fading which makes it ideal
for most uses--especially children's and denim garments. It is probably
the smoothest running, most trouble free of all machine embroidery threads.
It has beautiful sheen and is usually the least expensive of the embroidery
threads.
TIP:
For best sewing & embroidery results always pre-shrink garment or project
fabric.
Bobbin -
the bobbin thread needs to be strong and very fine to avoid unnecessary
bulk behind the finished design.
Never use the spun poly bobbin
thread, as it will cause lint build up inside the bobbin case, hook race
and interior of your machine and cause problems.
The continuous filament
polyester is the best of the bobbin threads. It is stronger, produces less
lint and thin enough to prevent a heavy build up on the backs of dense designs.
Tip: If changing top or bobbin threads brands-get your dealer to re-set
your upper/lower tension setting to both the new threads!
NEEDLES
Here we have 3 choices that cause no problems with our machines when you
select the correct size. They are Janome®, Schmetz® and Organ® - The least
expensive of the three is the Organ brand and remember - machine manufacturers
can't afford to pack inferior needles in their machines - this is why we
carry the Organ needles!
TIP:
Always choose the smallest needle size for the design, fabric & thread.
This prevents over penetration of the fabric, which can cause fabric weakness
under the design!
When purchasing needles
for your machine you need to know the parts of a needle in order to best
decide which one you will need.
Shank--the top portion
of the needle that you insert in the needle bar. Our machines require a
flat backed, rounded front shank. Always place the flat back to the back
or away from you when inserting.
Shaft--the lower part
of the needle between the shank and the eye.
Groove/Scarf--the
hollowed out part of the needle just before the eye.
Eye--the opening through
which the thread passes.
Point--the tip of
the needle, which pierces the fabric to deliver the thread to the hook race
to lock with the bobbin thread to form a stitch. There are a variety of
points available for various types of fabric and technique. Following is
a simple guideline for choosing needle size and type:
#60/8-S--organza/silk
or any fabric where you don't want to see the needle holes.
#70/9-S -- light weight
woven
#75/11-S or BP--light
weight woven & for great outlines
#80/12-S or BP--medium
woven
#90/14--our special
needle for twisting thread & metallics.
TIP:
Commercial embroiders use light to medium ballpoint needles for most applications
with the exceptions of leather and waterproof or coated fabrics and canvas!
We hope we've taken some of the mystery out of the selection of embroidery
supplies. There are so many new products coming out all the time that it
gets confusing and not all of them are worth the price you pay to try them
out! The items we've mentioned are the tried and true -not just by me, but
by the commercial embroidery industry.
Thread
Artist Designs On Line Newsletter & Specials
Greetings
to all our subscribers! We have some hints & tips for you in addition to
our specials. We hope you benefit from the tips and be sure to send for
the new free design when you place an order of $25 or more!
All our Spring
’99 collections are the best we’ve ever created. These designs are of commercial
quality & all have great depth, texture & detail. We hope you enjoy stitching
them as much as we’ve enjoyed creating them!
Stabilizers/Backings
There are almost as many backings on the market as there are embroidery
designs. Well maybe not as many, but when you’re trying to choose the best
backings it can seem like there are!
1 - Consider is how dense and/or large the design
is.
2 - What fabric are you going to stitch the design
on.
3 - What method of laundering will be used and how
often will the garment be laundered.
Since most of us don’t want the
"armor" look when we’re finished, you should choose the softest backing
that will support the design. Sometimes this means using multiple layers
of a lighter backing rather than one or two layers of a heavier backing.
When using multiple layers or stitching on a fabric which is difficult to
control, try placing your backing layers at 90 degree angles—straight grain
then cross grain—to produce the best results.
Avoid using paper products for
stabilizing, such as freezer paper or coffee filters. These products are
not meant to be used as embroidery backing. Paper products will dull your
needle and will not stay with the design after laundering. If the stabilizer
does not stay with the design after laundering the design will be weak and
may become warped or wavy.
If you’re not using a fusible
backing, always baste or use a temporary spray adhesive to affix the backing
to your fabric before hooping. If this process is skipped, the result might
be outlines, which are "off".
Consider combining and/or layering
different styles & weights of stabilizers to create the exact when you can’t
find exactly the right weight or style of backing for your design/fabric
project. For instance, your have a large, fairly dense design that needs
to go on a medium weight knit—you may want to try using 1 layer of medium
weight fusible and a couple of layers of soft tear away. Or try a base layer
of medium cut away with 2-3 additional layers of soft tear away or poly
mesh.
All backings may be used in this
way. In fact, it is preferable to using too many layers of one kind!
We now have a sample pack of
all our backings, & their uses, at a reasonable price - Click on this link
to order >
Embroidery Supplies
Text links - >
Our Other Great Embroidery Supplies
-Got a problem ? The right supplies can help.
> Our Stabilizing Lessons
< Free lessons - so your can get great results for you designs
> Our Basting Stitch < Download
files & How to use & test your methods
>
Need Hooping Help ? < More free lessons - > Hooping
Aids < Specials for the Snappy ~ Embroidery's Friend ~ Embroidery
Mate
Other stitching info & Tips
quality arc embroidery threads
> Now
Only $1.56 /1000m
cone in kits - or buy in your choice of
arc thread
colors
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