One of the first tasks the new machine embroidery enthusiast
encounters is how to hoop correctly. The goal is to get
the stabilized fabric into the hoop without distorting the
fabric in any direction. The fabric should be taut without
stretching, especially on the cross grain. Some hints are
below that I hope this will help end hooping problems for
you, allowing you to have a more enjoyable embroidery sewing
experience!
1 - To insure
the very best end results, always pre-shrink the fabric.
2 - Stitch
a test sample of the design (always best) or print out a
template, with the cross hairs visible, of the design you're
going to stitch-make sure that it is the actual size of
the design. Cut out the template. Cut just the design or
include the outer "frame" of the hoop you're using. If the
cross hair markings aren't dark enough, trace over them
with a straight edge and dark fine-line pen.
3 - How do
you find the desired area of the fabric where the design
will be stitched? If it's for you, try it on and pin the
design template where you think it looks best. Next, you
will need to mark the designated area with a crosshair,
bulls eye or "X". The best marking agent is old-fashioned
tailor's chalk. (Disappearing marking pens may not completely
disappear or may re-appear later!) Using a square ruler,
mark your position. Stabilize the fabric under the marked
position. (See our stabilizing lessons for additional stabilizing
information.)
4 - Choose
the smallest size hoop that will accommodate the design
you are embroidering. Less area between the design size
and the outer edges of the hoop is best. If there is too
much fabric surrounding the design, it is much more likely
to pull in as the machine is stitching, causing gaps between
design parts. Too much fabric will also cause puckering
around the finished design and will only worsen when the
fabric is laundered.
5 - Place
the part of the hoop with the screw, also known as the outer
hoop on a firm, flat surface, usually a table. Never try
to use an ironing board for hooping for 2 reasons. 1st--It
may give under the pressure of inserting the inner hoop.
2nd-Since an ironing board, usually has padding, the cushioning
may cause the fabric to be less taut.
6 - To prevent
the hoop popping out, puckers and hoop burns in the fabric,
make sure that the screw is set so that the outer hoop has
enough room to expand to accommodate the weight or thickness
of the fabric & backing combination. TIP: To make hooping
easier, try placing a small spring on the screw after it
passes through the first hole. The screws may be purchased
or use a ballpoint pen spring. Before inserting the screw
into the second hole of the outer hoop, slide the spring
onto the screw, and then insert the screw into the second
hole where the nut is located. Tighten the screw so that
the outer hoop doesn't separate. The screw will hold the
hoop "open" allowing for much easier inner hoop insertion.
7 - Most
embroidery hoops come with a plastic template with grid
marks on it. This is the best tool for positioning the design.
Place this grid template in the inner hoop. Lay or tape
the prepared design template (see above), aligning the cross
hairs on the template to the marks on your fabric. Using
your tailor's chalk, extend the lines in both directions
until they are long enough for easy alignment with the hoop
or template markings. Lay the inner hoop & template on the
marked position on the fabric.
8 - Pick
up the hoop and stabilized fabric being careful to keep
the inner hoop in the intended position. This is most easily
accomplished by gripping the hoop and fabric on the sides.
Carefully position the inner hoop directly over the outer
hoop. It is always preferable to insert the inner hoop in
one "push" to avoid fabric distortion. If your hands are
small or you are using a large hoop, you will want to "walk"
the inner hoop into the outer hoop. (If this step is difficult
for you, the "Snappy" hooping aid may be of real value to
you.)
9 - If the
above step is done correctly, the hooped fabric and backing
should be perfectly flat and free of any wrinkles or bubbles.
If there are bubbles or wrinkles that must be removed, be
sure that you pull on the fabric and backing together. Pull
no more than is necessary to make the fabric flat and smooth.
Over stretching the fabric during this process may cause
puckers around the finished design when the hoop is removed.
It may also cause gaps between design parts.
10 - Lift
the hoop from the table and push the inner hoop deeper into
the outer hoop at all 4 corners. There should be a slight
ridge of fabric & backing below the outer hoop on the backside
(approx. 1/8"). Tighten the screw, but avoid over tightening
the screw as this will cause puckers in the fabric and may
"strip" the screw.
Happy Stitching,
